(Frequently Asked Questions)

FAQ

This page regards decoys in general and Tail-Wagger specific questions that we have fielded over 4 years of interaction with hunters... both users and non-users of decoys.

A. No. The more time you spend hunting, the more likely it is that a deer will come within shooting range and be sufficiently distracted to allow you to get the shot. However, the decoy is more likely to bring a deer in from a distance and keep it distracted and moving around in your immediate area, thus giving you more and better opportunities to get the right shot.

A. It depends. If you’re hunting in an open field, the deer can make out your decoy easily. You just need to make it look alive, so 16 seconds might be all right. If you’re in the woods, a passing deer may not notice your decoy without some motion to get it’s attention, and a deer can travel pretty far in 16 seconds. 8 seconds would probably be best.

A. That depends on who you ask. We’ve heard the big name hunters say both. Consider this: if you’re trying to attract a big buck (most of us are), a buck or doe decoy could work. A buck decoy is not likely to attract a doe unless she’s in heat, in which case, a buck may be with her already. A doe decoy may attract a buck or doe at any time. Either type of decoy may scare another deer away, but most likely a buck decoy would do it more. If you decide to use a buck decoy, it’s probably better to weaken it: use just one antler. You can then have the weak side toward you, because the buck coming in would likely approach the weak side first, giving you the shot you need.

A. NO, NO, NO! The scent you put on the decoy will remain with it until removed. Do you want to be walking out of the woods in the dark carrying something with estrus scent on it? Do you realize that estrus scent starts to "rot" once it’s exposed to air? What good will it be tomorrow all over your decoy? If you’re using a food based scent, it may get your decoy gnawed up by rodents when your hunting or when you store it. Canisters are great: you can place them around your decoy and close them up when you quit hunting.

A. Only if you can make it lightweight enough. The tail that is shipped with the units weighs about 7 grams. We have stripped enough skin and fur off real tails to make them work, and it looks good, but the action is not quite as quick as the original tail flick, but pretty good. But, it sure looks neat. (Not that the deer will notice). Keep in mind that all those hairs accumulate odor, and if it rains, the wet hair will probably add enough weight to make the unit inoperable. Do you really need it? Much of the same can be said about glass eyes for your decoy... they sure look cool. But, how necessary is it? That’s a pretty subjective question to answer.

Q. Which decoy is better: Flambeau’s Redi-Doe, Grazing Doe, or CommanDoe, Carry-Lite, McKenzie, Delta or...?

A. They all work. The added realism of one vs. the other might make the difference some times, though. The set up for the Flambeau decoys is easier, since you don’t have to stake them in the ground to keep them standing. They’re fairly lightweight, being hollow plastic. However, the paint is not as durable as the Carry-Lite. Carry-Lite makes a good looking, durable decoy, but it has to be staked into the ground to keep it standing (stakes are provided). In addition, the Carry-Lite has a particularly "stern" posture which can cause concern with other deer. The full body foam decoys work, but the work involved in transporting them to and from your stand may cause you to avoid using them as much. Delta’s "Supreme" decoy, which is hollow, flexible, quiet foam works, and it’s easier to transport, but the sections must be put together on site, meaning more work in the field. All of them make more noise or are more work to get on site and ready than the Tail-Wagger Deer Rear, but offer more realism. The additional realism may, at times, be what’s needed to get the deer in the right place for a shot. However, we believe that the ease of use of the Deer Rear means you will use it more often than other decoys and in places you’d never think to take another decoy because of the work involved, thus leading to more success. If you hunt in an area where it’s easy for you to use a full size decoy as often as you like, by all means, do it!

A. They can work in open fields. Sometimes. They will rarely work in the woods without adding motion. And we don’t think you should be playing around with strings and cables when deer are in the area.

A. Most importantly, it must get seen! Decoy placement depends on whether you’re using a buck or doe decoy and from which way the deer will be coming. Once you know which way the deer will be coming, they will fool you. It seems like they always do! Therefore, some flexibility in set-up is important. Many times, a deer will approach a decoy to about 20 yards and study it. If you can place the decoy so that the deer is within your range when it stops at 20 yards, you get your shot. Often, a deer will circle the decoy to check it out, both visually and for smell. When final approaching the decoy, a buck usually tries to come in from the rear on a doe decoy, so it’s a good bet to have the decoy facing away from you. A buck approaching a buck decoy often comes in head on, so the decoy should be facing in your direction, but not directly at you.

A. First of all, it’s the motion that gets the attention. It has to do with "rods" and "cones" in their eyes. Deer see motion better than they see detail. They see better at night than we do for the same reason. Regarding the tail: you’ve seen 2 dogs meet, and what’s the first thing they do? Smell the other’s rear! A lot of information is gathered this way in the animal kingdom. It’s an important location, as is the face of the animal. The motion provided by Tail-Wagger is the "at ease" signal. An alarmed deer would not wag their tail in this manner. If you watch deer enough, you’ll notice that they often give this "wag" right before their head goes down to eat. The "ear twitch" is another matter. At the right time it might be OK, at other times, it might be a mistake. Why chance it?

A. The tail is made of urethane foam, not polyurethane. It’s UV stable. It’s closed cell, so it doesn’t absorb moisture like a sponge. It’s flexible, so it won’t break. In other words, it’s durable, it doesn’t "wear out." If you bend it many, many, many times, the paint may start to look worn. But, Gary Clancy, CJ Winand and others don’t even care about the paint. They use it with the "white" side showing anyway. It’s possible, if you leave the tail outside, that some critter will chew on it. But it will still work.

A. To balance the power drain. The electronics of the power pack operate on 6 volts. The motor is powered using only 3 volts. Therefore, 2 of the batteries have more power consumed than the other 2. You may not "have to" rotate the batteries, but it’s a good practice.

Q. Why are alkaline batteries not recommended?

A. Alkaline batteries have more "power" than carbon batteries. The added power may cause some noise within the unit due to the faster action. In addition, alkaline batteries do not hold up as well as carbon in cold weather.

A. Probably more. There’s a built-in timing circuit. If you set the WAGGER for 8 second intervals, every 8 seconds there is only a .6 second pulse of energy to the motor. Very efficient. Unless the tail is wagging, only the "electronics" are working when it’s on. Cold effects battery operation, so the power pack is made a separate unit that you can bring into warmth without the decoy. Therefore, whenever you head out hunting, you can have warm batteries. In sub zero temperatures, it might be wise to enclose the power pack in a thick sock or mitten if you think you’ll be able to stay in your stand for an extended period.

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